With a coy smile, he said, ‘She likes obsessions’” “According to Zambernardi, who spoke backstage, Mrs Prada became obsessed with suits. The final deformalised flourish? The netted veils of a Sunday best hat removed and placed over the décolletage like a form of armour or a sign of rebellion. Miuccia can probably subvert classicism in her sleep. As the skittish soundtrack darted from Lydia Lunch’s “Lady Scarface” to “Cry me a River” to a rendition of “Gloomy Sunday” (also known as the “Hungarian Suicide Song”), so too did Miuccia skit skat from 50s well-to-do ladies to 60s go-go dancers and mods, with a touch of the flapper thrown in for good measure. In sheer Memphis-design patterned organzas, various check-ridden tweeds and stripy patent, the skirt suit was taken out of its formal context, especially when paired with deliberately naff 70s knitted tank tops. With a coy smile, he said, “She likes obsessions.” That of course doesn’t mean doing suits verbatim. We break down the iconic makings of a Prada uniform that is anything but standardised.Īccording to Zambernardi, who spoke backstage, Mrs Prada has become obsessed with suits. With that said, when you can take ownership of such design traits as Miuccia does, then why wouldn’t you return to them repeatedly with renewed urgency. “Greatest Hits” feels like a pejorative term when used in the context of a Prada collection. They might go from upper crust establishments to underground beatnik clubs. You could say they were hammered home, even as Miuccia threw everything at her dressed to the nines renegade ladies-who-lunch. In her absence, her right-hand man Fabio Zambernardi held the reins, but the Prada-isms that Mrs Prada has honed in on, time and time again, were defiantly present in maximum strength. She sadly had to take leave as her aunt had passed away. Miuccia Prada wasn’t in the building for last night’s Prada show.
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